

We walked up the hill in the burning heat of the afternoon past enormous Buddhas carved out of the rocky hillside, past huge wasp nests and up to the Man Mandir at the top of the hill. The Palace is famous for the eccentricity of the exterior decor which features a row of yellow ducks in the wall tiles. A large fort area stretches along the ridge of the hill - derelict now, overgrown and neglected - oh no, that's Kevin's room again. On the way back to our sumptuous lodgings we were dropped off at some sort of mela that we'd spotted earlier. It was a kind of Ideal Home Exhibition meets car boot with fairground thrown in.

We were the objects of fascination as the only westerners there - but all the people were extremely friendly, and many mobile phones now feature Harrison and Nigel as this weeks wallpaper. As the midges started to bite and dusk descended we could put off no longer our return to the Squalior.
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